Ampeg B2-RE Bass Amp Gets New EQ Potentiometers

Bass players use SERIOUS hardware, and this Ampeg B2-RE is a serious, heavy, high-end bass amp.  So why in the world does Ampeg use those tiny little plastic slide pots for the equalizer controls?  The Unbrokenstring Crew digs in.

Ampeg is a name that needs no introduction nor elaboration.

 

Three of the plastic handles are broken off.

 

A tour of the rear panel shows the cooling fan, the quarter-inch speaker jacks and Neutrik jacks for output power.

 

The preamp and power amp can be separated using these jacks,  An effects loop is nice, and a balanced output for the poor sot in the control room is a nice touch.  The balanced output has a switchable attenuator.

 

A look inside shows a big green circuit board that handles the power amp duties.  This view is dominated by the toroidal power transformer on the right.  The ribbon cable on the left carries power to and signals from the preamp board.

 

And here is the preamp board.  Interesting, the slice potentiometers for the EQ are located on their own circuit board on the left side of this picture.

 

The preamp board needs to come out to get to the slide pots.  This end of the cable comes loose easily.

 

Screws hold the preamp board in place in the chassis.

 

All the knobs come off, as well as the nuts beneath them.

 

The input jack has its own nut and washer.

 

While we’re here, an inspection of the unit reveals a solder joint on the path to failing.  This is an easy fix.

 

The slide potentiometers used by Ampeg are special for a couple of reasons.  One reason is, they have this nice vinyl flap over the slot that helps keep dust out of the internals of the potentiometer.

 

The potentiometer board is held down with these screws and brackets.  This needs to come apart next.

 

The other thing that makes these slide potentiometers special is that they use three legs to attach to the circuit board.

 

Here is the exact part number that needs to be specified when purchasing replacements.

 

A similar part is available from other sources, but if you look closely, the ‘pin-out’ does not match.  The correct part is in the foreground, and the ‘new’ incompatible part is seen in the background, with the ‘1736’ marking, which is probably a date code of year = 2017 week = 36.

 

I was curious if the slider and handle could be removed from the new parts and substituted into the old pots.

 

The interior view of the slide pot.  The black plastic thingie with the fingers, on the left, is the wiper, and the black strip on the right is the resistive element.  The fingers slide along the resistive element to achieve the variable resistor function.

 

Oh, drat.  The sliders are a different thickness.  We won’t be able to use the new parts to repair the old controls.

 

So, a week later, a batch of the new controls come in.  We are going to change them all out.

 

What do you think, folks?  Should I clean up the front panel and remove all these presets?

 

The new parts are installed.

 

The workmanship appears to be pretty good, if I do say so myself!

 

Back on the air, this Ampeg is ready to really rumble through its four hour burn-in!

Thanks for reading all the way to the end!

CONTACT – David Latchaw EE
281-636-8626

Peavey MKIII Bass Head Needs Un-Smoked

This solid state Peavey Bass head is also capable of handling mixer, equalization, and preamp roles for public address, monitor, and other sound reinforcement roles.  But power amp quit!  Can the Unbrokenstring Crew help?

The AutoMix function that Peavey developed has been discussed elsewhere in the blog.  Lots of EQ knobs here!

 

Note the graphical EQ and bi-amp capability.

 

Woah!  An Instrument System!  Ooh.  Aah.

 

On the rear panel is the power switch and speaker connections.

 

Peavey mixes and matches front panels (inputs, preamp, eq) and rear panels (ps, power amp) to build different heads.

 

As is the case with many pieces of electronics, the City of Los Angeles Fire Department approves this unit!

 

Name, rank, and serial number, please.

 

The blue circuit board at the top is for connections to the power transistors.  The I/O connections are to the left and the power supply filter caps are seen here.

 

More blue boards at the top, for power transistors.  Driver transistors are found on the square heat sinks.  Do you see the problem yet?

 

This circuitry is all preamp and tone circuitry.

 

This sucker got HOT!

 

The worst damage was to components that were near the root cause.  They burned because the transistor on the aluminum heat sink suffered an internal short circuit.

 

The heat of the electrical fault was high enough to melt solder, which happens around 650 deg. F.

 

A matched set of driver transistors were installed and the circuit board cleaned.  The destroyed components to the right have been removed and will be replaced.

 

The new parts are mounted just above the circuit board.  We can get flame-proof resistors now, unlike when the unit was built with in the 1970s.

 

More collateral damage was found on one of the blue boards.  This solder trace acted as a fuse at its narrowest point.

 

The circuit board is now cleaned up and the gap is bridged with a bit of 16awg solid copper wire.

 

Some of the power transistors were shorted as well, so all of them are now replaced with a matched set of eight.

 

These parts are still made by ON Semiconductor, the heir apparent to the Motorola semiconductor product line.

 

The electronics are back together.  The filter capacitors are original, but are still in great shape, so they remain in service.

 

And, of course, after all the components and circuit boards are in flames, the fuse finally does its job.  Of course.

 

With a new fuse, the electronics are connected again and initial tests begin!

 

This unit is back on the air!  This unit is almost hifi sound quality, with endless bottom end.  Good Job Peavey!

Thanks for reading all the way to the end!

CONTACT – David Latchaw EE
281-636-8626

Peavey 260 Booster Amp Needs a Boost

A local church has a rack of Peavey gear that drives their public address system.  This unit had failed.  A phone call to The Unbrokenstring Crew was all that was needed to get this unit onto the operating table.
Unlike a traditional guitar amp or stand-alone amplifier, this unit takes high level signals and buffers it to the loudspeakers.  They are often used as a means to fill in or expand the coverage of an existing system.

 

And the inputs are daisy-chain-able.

This is, of course, the volume knob.

 

Here is a tour of the rear panel.  The power switch is ‘center-off’ and, on this unit, does not switch the chassis ground to connect to one side or the other of the AC power line.

 

No tour of a rear panel is complete without a high-rez pic of the power cord.

 

And the name/rank/serial number part of our tour.

 

The AC line fuse was popped.

 

This is, correctly, a five amp slow blow unit.

 

Removing the front and rear panels permit access to all the electronics.

 

The chassis is attached to the rear panel of the unit.  Surprisingly, the power transformer is NOT fastened to the wooden cabinet, but is also attached to the rear panel.

 

These filter capacitors are good and will not be replaced.

 

This unit has a shorted rectifier.  New parts were secured, and are shown here.  Although only one rectifier is bad, the other three are the same age and have experienced the same abuse, so they will all be replaced.

 

The new rectifiers are installed.

 

Funny thing is, the new fuse looks a whole lot like the old fuse, except it is not all exploded and burned and stuff.

 

The output from my radio is amplified to a larger signal using my Marshall Stack, to drive the input of the amp at the proper level.

 

This was the point when the neighbors called the cops to complain of the noise.

Thanks for reading all the way to the end!

CONTACT – David Latchaw EE
281-636-8626

Behringer Ultrabass BX4500H Bass Head Needs a New Fan

Billy said that this unit worked very well until it overheated and shut down after about an hour and a half of use.  He also didn’t hear the fan run.  Could something this simple be all that is wrong with this bass head?

The Unbrokenstring Crew operated this unit for an hour and verified that it overheated and shut down, as it should.

 

Here is a tour of the rear panel.  The power switch is in the back of the unit.

 

I really like the Neutrik Speak-On connectors for power at this level.  The 1/4th inch plugs could be operated above their data sheet limits for current and voltage if used at the 450 watt level.

 

We’ve removed the top of the unit.  Removing the finger guard lets us verify that the fan itself is completely locked up.

 

To get to the fan, we need to remove the heat sink assembly, which is held in place with these screws on the bottom.

 

This pic just allows us to keep the wiring straight for reassembly.  This circuit board handles the power output duties.

 

The fan is bolted to the end of the heat sink assembly.  The power amp is also attached to the whole stack.

 

We need these specs in order to specify a replacement.

 

This power cable is specific to the mating connector on the circuit board that supplies the 24v for the fan.  We need to keep this and transfer it to the new fan.

 

There is a chance that we can remove the whole cable assembly from the old fan and move it to the new fan.

 

The new fan has three wires.  The third wire is probably a tachometer output so that the speed of the  fan can be known.

 

The wires on the new fan are soldered to the fan with lap joints.

 

So, we can make new lap joints when moving the old cable to the new fan.  I’ve got a good feeling about this.

 

The new fan is bolted back on the stack and the whole arrangement is put back together.

 

This amp ran for four hours continuously until the neighbors called the cops complaining of a noise ordinance violation.  I believe that the overheating problem is fixed!

Thanks for reading all the way to the end!

CONTACT – David Latchaw EE
281-636-8626

Intermittent Ashdown EVO III 500 Bass Head

This head was soldiering away in the studio when the output signal became distorted.  Can the Unbrokenstring Crew un-distort the output and keep it from happening again?

Stock photo credit: Ashdown Engineering

 

Name, rank and serial number, please.

 

The oscilloscope shows the waveform presented across an eight ohm resistive load.  A sinewave is applied to the input jack.  We should have a sinewave here.  But we don’t.  This gives us something to work on!

 

Oops!  As soon as we touch the chassis, the output waveform changes!

 

Since we’re on a roll, let’s touch it again!  This is what we should have seen all along.  I think we know where to look.

 

You might be surprised to know that the big metal heat sink I was touching has a high voltage on it.  So here I am safely draining the high voltage before I touch it and get shocked.  Like in the previous picture.

 

I wish the heat sink was as well-supported as the rest of the circuit boards.

 

This whole assembly is attached to the circuit board on the bottom.  Out it comes!

 

Can you see the problem?  Me neither.

 

Close examination reveals cracked solder joints.

 

The correct repair for a cracked solder joint is to remove everything and replace the joint with fresh tin/lead solder.

 

This is a good solder joint, if I do say so myself.

 

Further examination reveals more cracked solder joints.  Guess what we’re going to do to these?

 

This little yellow grabber tool is handy to install screws in tight recesses.

 

Time to crank it up!

Thanks for reading all the way to the end!

CONTACT – David Latchaw EE
281-636-8626